Why is my pet peeing in the house? Submissive Urination

My cat Wren, she plays I work,
how is that fair?

None of us get to the place where fear cripples our ability to function normally without having had a road of choices behind us. Trying to remind and convince my clients that an unwanted behavior is simply the accumulation of missed opportunities along the way is every pet parents responsibility and one of my biggest challenges.

I am not sure if these behavior questions are the result of not understanding the failings and mistakes we humans have made along the way, or, our want of absence and accountability when forced to take to look in the mirror and face our part in the problem, or, being so caught in the fast pace of our lives that we think we can get a quick-fix for everything. But, I get asked about one behavior problem more than any other.. I get asked it a lot,,, and I cringe every single time.

My pups, Charlie and Jekyll

Here is the BIG dilemma for behavior problems;

1. They took a while to get there, therefore, 
2. You have to assume that it is going to take a while to get back to where you went astray, and,
3. You are in all likelihood responsible for some part of the problem. 

Here is the good news, things can get better. Pets are trainable and there are people who can help.

One of the most common problems I get asked to help with is the proverbial 
"peeing in the house" pet.

I answer this question from two perspectives.

• First, as a veterinarian, and, 
• Second, as a behaviorist.

My happy cat finds a sunny spot.
No worries with this kid..

When I am discussing any problem with a client in the clinic I always start with a talk about what is going on?, What is "acceptable" versus "unacceptable" in the clients eyes? The length of time it has been going on, and what environmental factors might be contributing to the problem? This is a discovery process which requires an open honest dialogue. It also requires trying to understand the world through your pets eyes. We reason with a humans perspective, but, when trying to solve a pets problem,  we need to be tackling the issue with the pets perception and life in mind.

Behavior problem resolution is about three things;

1. Understanding what the parents problem is,
2. Understanding why the pet believes what they are doing is necessary.
3. Convincing both parties that they can help each other and return back to harmony.

The first place to start with every pet problem is your vet. Here's why,, assuming that it is a behavioral problem and not looking for a medical problem could worsen the medical condition and possibly cause additional behavior problems.

The question I was recently asked was about a submissive urination in a young dog who had been raised in a household with a lot of yelling. Her fearful urination persisted for years and has progressed to now urinating even when getting praise and treats.

Here was my advice;

See your vet first. Your vet will look for any possible complicating or compounding issues, especially when it has been such a longstanding problem. I know it sounds like a long shot, but I have found many, many medical issues when we were focused on what we believed to be simply a behavioral issue. These included underlying kidney and liver issues, underlying bladder stones, bladder infection, and even anatomical disorders that can cause leakage or inability to hold urine. This examination and work up should include a thorough examination, including looking at the urinary anatomy and palpation of the bladder. I would also recommend blood work to include a CBC, chemistry and urinalysis. At my clinic this would cost about $170.

After these we address any possible behavioral issues. These can include stress, anxiety, fear, changes to the environment, etc. Another possibility (dogs) is spay incontinence. More information about this disease is here.

I also advise seeking help from a trained, reputable, and experienced behaviorist or trainer who can come to your home and understand the scope of the issues. In this case it sounded like any emotional interaction would elicit urination,, therefore, the goal is to minimize all interactions from being surrounded by emotion, or with the possibility of causing an emotional response. This is not to say that you don't interact and provide exercise, attention, and training, BUT, you don't use emotions to provide them. You provide care and attention just not treats, praise, or commands that are with baby talk or harshness (i.e. emotionally driven). Too may people try to re-wire their pet with soft, silly, baby talk which is almost as anxiety ridden as yelling or demanding. Be a confident, quiet, example of composure, love, and dedication to helping your pet on the road to re-wiring an re-training.

Never, ever yell, never scold, and never reprimand their behavior in a negative fashion. Usually, we suggest that you train with praise and reward, but for these guys it can cause submission and subsequent urination. Your job is to create an environment and atmosphere of self-esteem, confidence and love, not a place where your pet is submissive to anyone else.

For example, re-inforce housebreaking with the tips here, but all interactions should be without words. Try using minimal hand signals or body language also. Instead approach him without words, place a leash on him, and go for a walk. I would also recommend that you minimize the interactions with other people as they will not understand his specific training needs. Pets with submission issues should be walked without talking or without you being anything other than a calm, patient, dog walker. Learn and teach them to how respond with hand signals and minimize showing your emotions. A little bit of gentle calm training with your pet will be reflected in their confidence with dealing with the world, and from these baby steps you can move forward without pee on the floor at every meet and greet.

I wish you the very best of luck!

My Jitterbug gives a head butt and a hug.

Related blogs; Submissive Urination

There are lots of pet questions being answered every day about all sorts of pet topics. Please join us in helping pets and their people at Pawbly.com. We are open and free to everyone who loves pets.

You can also find me on Twitter @FreePetAdvice, or at the clinic, Jarrettsville Vet, in Jarrettsville Maryland.

Cats 101. The Litter Box

Frankie, female, spayed Snowshoe cat.
She is awaiting a home after her parents, and very dear clients of ours, died.
She and her brother are both in dire need of a new home.
Please help us find them a new family.
They would have gone to the Humane Society and might have been put down as surrendered cats.

There are a few BIG advantages to cats over dogs.

My mom and her kitty Ramsey.
At 15 years old he had been chronically vomiting.
An ultrasound revealed an intestinal mass. It was removed and he has made a full recovery.

There’s the whole compact design, portability, and ease of care. Cats require a smaller space and have simple needs and demands. They also learn quickly

The list of items to provide your cat is short.;

Litter box

Remember there are some guidelines for litter boxes.

1.      Two for the first cat and one additional for each additional cat.
2.      Also remember that cats prefer unscented, non-clumping sand-like litter.
3.      In a large low sided open litter box.
4.      Away from any electric outlets, noisy areas, high traffic spots, or dark scary areas.
5.      It should also be kept on the floor in an area that your cat isn't afraid to go to.
6.      If your cat seems to be missing or avoiding the box, rethink everything associated with it. Size, shape, litter, and placement. Cats are discerning, complex individuals. They are far more sensitive to smell, touch, and their environment. Think like your cat, and provide them what they prefer, not what you prefer.
7.      It is important to keep the litter box clean. Scoop out waste daily and dump all of the litter weekly. Every week the litter box should be cleaned and dried. Be careful to not use any harsh chemicals that might cause your cat to not want to visit the box again.

Jitterbug, scoping and claiming his spot on the bed.
The puppies stand quietly and let him do whatever he wants.

I know many of my clients don’t want to share their living space with their cats litter box, but putting the litter box in the basement, in the laundry room, or garage is fine as long as it is in a place your cat can get to easily, safely, and quickly.

This is my art studio.
There are four cats in my house and Magpie has decided she prefers to not be with them all of the time. So, Magpie has claimed it as her space.
Can you see her litter box?

Litter box issues are one of the biggest complaints I hear from clients. For the simple demands that our cats place on us, the continual use of the litter box is the single greatest demand we ask of them. If your cat starts to have issues with inconsistent use of the litter box see your vet immediately to rule out a medical problem first. Then take a good long well thought out look at your cats litter box and ask yourself if there is anything about it that you would change if you were a cat? Remember the longer there is a problem the harder it can be to fix or resolve it.

Magpie's room has a bed, windows, and her own litter box.

She may not be affectionate with two of the other cats,
but she loves her own time on the couch with me.

For more information on litter boxes, and litter box issues, please see;

The 20 Minute Cure To Peeing Outside Of The Litter Box

Inappropriate Elimination in Cats

Feline Marking

If you have a cat, or any kind of pet question you can ask it for free on Pawbly.com. It is free for everyone to use, so come on and join in the conversation! We are dedicated to helping pets everywhere!

Or you can find me on Twitter, @FreePetAdvice.

Feline Marking. How to Help Identify It and Address It.

Today's blog is about addressing aspects of feline marking or spraying. In the previous blog I mentioned that the subject of urination and cats is one of the most tenuous and emotionally charged subjects veterinarians face. Urination problems are the most common behavioral issues in cats. I have more sad endings to this one single problem than every other behavioral issue combined.

A few weeks ago I met a client for her cat’s exam. Her very gentle, affectionate declawed cat was loving all of the attention he was getting with me during his exam. As I examined him she started talking about how loving he was to the family. I inquired why he was so dirty? She replied that he was an outside cat because he was peeing in the house. He had been peeing in the house for many months, and she said that she had tried everything (sadly, she never came to see any of us vets), and she told me that it was he either go outside or she was going to put him to sleep. I have heard this many times from many people. Every time I apologize to that pet, knowing that there is some reason, and some plea that is being ignored. I asked her if I could microchip him now that he was an outside cat. She replied, “No, I don’t want him back if he is ever found.”

"Inappropriate elimination" is defined as lack of consistent use of the litter box, versus "marking" which is associated with a behavioral component where the cat claims property, or challenges others for territory. It can also be a sign of stress, anxiety, or fear.

A behavioral assessment of "marking" should only be done after a medical etiology has been ruled out. A veterinary behaviorist can assist in diagnosing and treating marking, and should always be utilized when treating this problem.

This article was compiled from a lecture by Benjamin L. Hart, DVM, PhD, DACVB, UC Davis. Given at CVC East, Baltimore, MD. 2009, and Hart, Hart and Bain, Canine and Feline Behavior Therapy, 2nd Ed, 2006, Blackwell Press.

It is important for the pet guardian to understand that cats are attracted to previously soiled areas. This is important because cats with their very astute sense of smell use a community waste area. They are attracted to an area that smells as if it contained fecal matter. This scent is undetectable by us. However, just the opposite is true also. If the area you are requesting them to use as a bathroom is too concentrated for their liking they will repel it. Remember the intention is to make the toilet area for your cat attractive to them, although it might not be as attractive to us.

It is very important to clearly distinguish between “inappropriate urination” and “marking.”

Inappropriate urination/defecation is characterized by;

·        Cats posture to urinate. They squat, lower the back end and empty their bladder. The litter box is used sometimes, infrequently, or not at all.

·        Cats will soil areas such as carpet, clothing, planters, or other items on a horizontal surface.

·        Cats with early signs of litter box aversion may straddle the box, shake their paws, or not covering their waste.

·        Often the inappropriate behavior starts as urination but may progress to defecation.

Cats that “mark” are most often characterized by;

·        Standing to place small amounts of urine most often on a vertical surface.

·        They continue to use the litter box to urinate and defecate.

·        The marking is usually done because of some difficult to identify inciting cause. It may be stress of other cats or pets in the house, or an outside cat.

Basic household guidelines are to keep a very clean litter box. It should be checked daily and all waste should be removed. Provide enough litter boxes so that the cats have a choice and do not have to challenge each other for a place.

We as parents make the common mistake of picking a litter that pleases us, based on its ability to clump, or its scent, or even its low price, but there are many, many, options out there. Try an at-home litter and litter box preference test by offering many sizes and shapes of boxes. Try covered, uncovered, tall, shallow, large and small. Also try many types of litter. Try sand, potting soil, clumping, non-clumping, crystals, wheat, pine, paper, etc. Let your pet have a vote and provide them with the options they feel most comfortable with.

Clean the litter boxes daily by scooping or removing the waste. Weekly the boxes should be dumped and the litter changed. The litter boxes should be cleaned with a mild detergent. Avoid all harsh smelling cleaners like ammonia, bleach, pine, or citrus. Cats have very sensitive noses and they will not want to be in a box that is too strong smelling.

If your cat has soiled in the house the area must be cleaned so that no trace of previous soiling can be detected. The product the author recommended is KOE (kennel odor eliminator) available at Amazon. Areas that have been soiled should be cleaned and removed from access. A common trick to keep the cat off of a previously soiled area is to purchase carpet covering and place it upside down. Cats will not try to walk on the plastic and the small plastic tacks that grip the carpet are uncomfortable to step on.

When all else fails try to confine the cat to a small space. The small space acts as a sort of re-training tool. It can re-enforce litter box etiquette and for a cat that has stress as a factor in the aversion the confinement might help ease their worries. A small space might be a large dog crate, a bathroom, or a small private area. Once the cat is using the litter box regularly again you can gradually allow the cat to have access to the rest of the house. Confinement for some cats might actually be stressful, and more stress might compound the aversion. So confinement should only be used as a last resort.

Peeing Outside The Box? The 20 Minute Cure!

If you asked me what problem I hear the most often, AND, which problem is the most gut-wrenching to address I would without hesitation say “cats and inappropriate urination or defecation.”

Not only do I see and hear about this issue frequently (weekly or more often), but I hear clients deep frustrations and exhaustion with it. In many cases clients are coming to me to discuss these problem weeks, months, or even years after it has begun. They have gotten to the point of almost giving up and give me the distinct clear impression that I have “20 minutes and a hundred bucks to fix this problem, or that cat is going outside or away to never never land.”

How is anyone going to fix a long standing problem in 20 minutes? Yep, impossible.

Here’s why. 

Let’s give every pet the benefit of the doubt and ASSUME that their issue started with a medical cause. 

It could have been any of the following:

1.   Infection. Your cat could have had a urinary tract infection. In fact, your cat might still have one. That urinary tract infection (UTI) might have caused the litter box aversion because your cat associated the pain of having to go to the bathroom (urination OR defecation) with the litter box. Say, for instance you are an 8 year old kid. You go down to the dark dismal basement and you step on a snake. It scares you to pieces. Think you are going to be as excited to go back down in that basement in the future? Probably not. Your cat looks at the litter box like you look at that basement. The best way to check for a UTI is with a culture and sensitivity. This is much more sensitive than a small sample of urine being quickly viewed in your veterinarian’s office.
2.  They have difficulty getting into the box because their joints hurt, or they are too weak to pick up their legs to get into the box. So they get close to it and call it ‘good enough.’
3. They were declawed and their paws hurt on the litter that to you feels like sand and to them feels like shards of glass.

Now, let’s give your thorough and complete medical work up the benefit of the doubt and address some of the behavior issues that can lead to aversion issues.

1.  Your litter box is not as clean as your cat wishes it to be. Now I realize that cleaning the litter box is probably not anyone’s favorite task. But if you ask me what kind of bathroom I am comfortable using it will not be a public porto-potty. I like my own pristine clean thoroughly daily deodorized home toilet. My cats get their litter box cleaned (scooped) daily. Weekly I dump, disinfect, clean and rinse thoroughly, and then dry the boxes. New litter is placed in every box weekly. Yes, that’s a lot of litter that I go through.
2.  There are not enough litter boxes in the house. See Rule of thumb for adequate number of litter boxes below.
3. The litter boxes are at the other end of the universe. If your cat never leaves your home than your home is their whole entire universe. If the box is on the other side of the living area then using the box requires a long commute. Nobody likes a long commute to the other side of the universe.
4.  The litter boxes are scaring your cats. For example, say your dog likes to sample from the litter box, and say your cat feels like they are being stalked for treats at the dispensary.
5.  The litter box is the dark dismal black hole and they are reluctant to tempt their own fate.
6.  The litter substrate is not to your cats liking. If it is reasonable to buy “deluxe quilted triple ply toilet paper” then maybe your cat has a preference too.
7.  There is an area of your house that has been soiled and your cat now believes that it is an “approved bathroom spot.”
8.  Your litter box is in an area that your very intelligent, very sensitive, hyper-acute pet thinks is dangerous. I have seen litter boxes placed next to washers and dryers. If you have ever had a washer that was off balance or dried tennis shoes in your dryer your cat might think that there is a caged dangerous beast in there and hence, wisely, avoid the tigers den.

Here’s what we know about cats and their litter box preference:

1. The rule of thumb with respect to adequate number of litter boxes in the house is. Two for the first cat and one additional for each additional cat.
2. If you don’t crawl down to the basement (or three floors away) to use your bathroom then why would your cat?
3. Your cat’s preferable litter is sand. Like play box kids sand. In general they do not prefer the clumping litter. I know we humans love the convenience of clumping but your cat likes to feel soft sand between their toes.
4.  Scented litter. I think that everyone would agree that cats have an incredibly superior sense of smell. How many of us have ever sat in church next to a patron who bathed and didn't dry off in a vat of perfume? So strong that it knocks you over. Think about this the next time you pour the litter in your cat’s box.
5. Dust, cat’s hate dust. Can you imagine digging a hole to mark your spot, covering your business and being enclosed in a box while you do it? That’s a lot of dust. It’s not pleasant and it’s not healthy.
6. Cat’s preference for size of their litter box is a kid’s sized pool. Yep, a 5 foot diameter four inch deep play sand box. How about that in your living room?
7. Cat’s intuition is to always be on guard. They like to be able to see all around them while they take pause of use the bathroom. They feel safer with an exit strategy and a clear escape route. OR, they like a comfortable sized enclosed litter box that they can go into, sniff around, dig for the right spot, and go to the bathroom in peace. (Perhaps the reason so many households have magazine baskets beside the loo?).
8. Try to provide a litter box that meets the specific needs of your cat. And remember that every cat is different.  Older cats have a difficult time climbing into a box. They might put their head in the box but the rest of them sticks out the front so you see urine and feces just outside the opening of the litter box. Try the shallowest sided box you can. Did you know there are even boxes that have removable sides so the cat thinks they are in the box but without the front side they don’t have to climb over anything.
9. Try different sized boxes. Try ones without lids, without flaps, etc. Put lots of different options out for your cat and see which one they prefer.
10. Try a different location. Maybe the box is by a power outlet? An electric piece of equipment? Or in a high traffic area? Are there other family members around that might stress your cat about using the litter box?
11.  Try a different type of litter (we can it substrate). Like sand, like non-clumping, or even potting soil. If your pet selects a different substrate you might be able to very gradually (emphasis on gradual) transition them over to a litter that you prefer.
12. Think about how you would feel if you were in your cat’s paws? How would you feel about the whole litter box experience? Then try to adjust for their preference and not ours.
13.  NEVER, EVER, EVER reprimand a cat. Never! Not in the box, not around the box, not because or about the box. Your cat is trying to tell you something. They never do anything out of spite, maybe fear, but never some human derived manipulative emotion. Your cat is a brilliant magnificent animal. I repeat this motto frequently…

“If your cat had opposable thumbs they would write on the walls “HELP!,” but because they do not they have no other way of telling you that there is a problem short of their litter box.”

Please do not ignore your cat, please don’t get angry at them. 

Please try to be patient, and please afford me more than 20 minutes to help you both.

Part Two on litter box 911 comes tomorrow.

If you have any questions about anything in this article, or any other kitty litter pointers to add please tell me. I can be reached @pawbly, or you can ask me a direct question at Pawbly.com

Thanks for reading!

If Your Cat Had Opposable Thumbs They Could Write, Instead All They Can Do Is Poop On The Floor

I received a question on pawbly today that got me thinking. I think that the question is important for a few reasons;

• It reminds me that I still have to try to convince people that pets don't act out of spite, nor do they feel shame. They react to our actions, they are afraid when our body language and past experience teach them to be fearful or untrusting.
• It also reminds me that those poor pets of ours, who have no way of articulating to us what is wrong with them, try so hard to tell us that there is a problem and we in turn need to be patient, forgiving and persistent to finding relief for them.
• We pet care givers need to provide a plan for immediate AND long term care. The quick one day fix is often unrealistic and we forget many of these pets go home, hopefully feeling better, but in many cases their clinical signs return, and their families feel as if we care givers/veterinarians have failed. Many clients do not return, they instead excuse our failings as a reason to give up, whether it be dictated by lack of funds, or a belief that it is not treatable.
• We veterinarians need to do a much better job of providing resources to our clients to help them understand their pets problems and provide some sort of support network so they do not feel alone or overwhelmed.

Today on pawbly Michelle asked me;

I'm trying to get second opinion- I have a cat, and have had her for several years - she keeps going 'poop' in my house right beside her cat box -- I've tried everything- changed the litter, changed the cat box - I also have another cat as well... he's male --- he goes in any cat box he can - and I have 3 cat boxes.

I took Maggie to the vet, they said she has idiopathic cystitis ? They said she may think it hurts when she goes to the bathroom and the litter box is the cause of it? Her 'poop' is also hard, and I told the vet that as well.

I really can't continue with her doing this ... it's daily she does it - she knows too, because when she sees me, she runs and hides ... so she won't get scolded. Wondering if you can give me a second opinion by this email - or do you know of someone that will take her and take care of her?

Thanks

Here is my answer;

First, please,please never scold a cat...it just makes everything else harder to resolve, because cats don't associate the act of whatever you are scolding them for, (in this case the urinating out of the box) with the scolding. They just hear scolding and then they are afraid of you..We mistakenly treat cats like dogs, and although you can train a dog with correction (never scold them either) you cannot do the same with a cat. Also, to train a pet to NOT do something you have to catch them in the act, show them what you want them to do, like place them in the litter box as they are peeing or posturing to pee and then reward them for doing what you are training them to do..the old wives tail of rubbing their nose in their waste doesn't work, they just don't associate one action with the correction after the fact.

IF, your cat was diagnosed with idiopathic cystitis then there are many treatment options for this. This can be incredibly painful and those poor cats associate the litter box with the pain so they avoid the box in an effort to avoid the pain that urinating causes.

I would strongly encourage you to follow up with a veterinarian to help alleviate the pain and discomfort that the cystitis is causing. (Can you imagine how awful it would feel to always have a bladder that hurts and then try to pee and have that feel like your urinary tract is on fire? Not fun!).

Many cats that I treat for cystitis need repeated follow ups, multiple medications and a good long term plan. Please try not to get frustrated ( I know that's not always easy), and please try to understand for many cats this is a very painful problem and I think that sometimes the only way a cat has to tell us that they are in pain or having a problem is to pee (or poop) outside of their litter box.

I am at the clinic for any additional questions, and I would be happy to see you and go over all of the medication and environmental changes can help alleviate the cystitis.

I hope this helps..

http://www.petmd.com/blogs/fullyvetted/2011/dec/treating_feline_idiopathic_cystitis#.UazhQRw3uow

Krista Magnifico, DVM
Owner Jarrettsville Veterinary Center
Jarrettsville, MD
http://www.jarrettsvillevet.com

Here are some very good articles to supplement this Q & A;

dvm360 idiopathic cystitis

Michigan Veterinary Specialists

veterinary partner

if you have any questions about cats, litter box aversion, or idiopathic cystitis you can find me, and some other very smart pet advisors @pawbly, or at pawbly. always free, always there for you and your pet1