Cats 101. The Litter Box

Frankie, female, spayed Snowshoe cat.
She is awaiting a home after her parents, and very dear clients of ours, died.
She and her brother are both in dire need of a new home.
Please help us find them a new family.
They would have gone to the Humane Society and might have been put down as surrendered cats.

There are a few BIG advantages to cats over dogs.

My mom and her kitty Ramsey.
At 15 years old he had been chronically vomiting.
An ultrasound revealed an intestinal mass. It was removed and he has made a full recovery.

There’s the whole compact design, portability, and ease of care. Cats require a smaller space and have simple needs and demands. They also learn quickly

The list of items to provide your cat is short.;

Litter box

Remember there are some guidelines for litter boxes.

1.      Two for the first cat and one additional for each additional cat.
2.      Also remember that cats prefer unscented, non-clumping sand-like litter.
3.      In a large low sided open litter box.
4.      Away from any electric outlets, noisy areas, high traffic spots, or dark scary areas.
5.      It should also be kept on the floor in an area that your cat isn't afraid to go to.
6.      If your cat seems to be missing or avoiding the box, rethink everything associated with it. Size, shape, litter, and placement. Cats are discerning, complex individuals. They are far more sensitive to smell, touch, and their environment. Think like your cat, and provide them what they prefer, not what you prefer.
7.      It is important to keep the litter box clean. Scoop out waste daily and dump all of the litter weekly. Every week the litter box should be cleaned and dried. Be careful to not use any harsh chemicals that might cause your cat to not want to visit the box again.

Jitterbug, scoping and claiming his spot on the bed.
The puppies stand quietly and let him do whatever he wants.

I know many of my clients don’t want to share their living space with their cats litter box, but putting the litter box in the basement, in the laundry room, or garage is fine as long as it is in a place your cat can get to easily, safely, and quickly.

This is my art studio.
There are four cats in my house and Magpie has decided she prefers to not be with them all of the time. So, Magpie has claimed it as her space.
Can you see her litter box?

Litter box issues are one of the biggest complaints I hear from clients. For the simple demands that our cats place on us, the continual use of the litter box is the single greatest demand we ask of them. If your cat starts to have issues with inconsistent use of the litter box see your vet immediately to rule out a medical problem first. Then take a good long well thought out look at your cats litter box and ask yourself if there is anything about it that you would change if you were a cat? Remember the longer there is a problem the harder it can be to fix or resolve it.

Magpie's room has a bed, windows, and her own litter box.

She may not be affectionate with two of the other cats,
but she loves her own time on the couch with me.

For more information on litter boxes, and litter box issues, please see;

The 20 Minute Cure To Peeing Outside Of The Litter Box

Inappropriate Elimination in Cats

Feline Marking

If you have a cat, or any kind of pet question you can ask it for free on Pawbly.com. It is free for everyone to use, so come on and join in the conversation! We are dedicated to helping pets everywhere!

Or you can find me on Twitter, @FreePetAdvice.

Feline Marking. How to Help Identify It and Address It.

Today's blog is about addressing aspects of feline marking or spraying. In the previous blog I mentioned that the subject of urination and cats is one of the most tenuous and emotionally charged subjects veterinarians face. Urination problems are the most common behavioral issues in cats. I have more sad endings to this one single problem than every other behavioral issue combined.

A few weeks ago I met a client for her cat’s exam. Her very gentle, affectionate declawed cat was loving all of the attention he was getting with me during his exam. As I examined him she started talking about how loving he was to the family. I inquired why he was so dirty? She replied that he was an outside cat because he was peeing in the house. He had been peeing in the house for many months, and she said that she had tried everything (sadly, she never came to see any of us vets), and she told me that it was he either go outside or she was going to put him to sleep. I have heard this many times from many people. Every time I apologize to that pet, knowing that there is some reason, and some plea that is being ignored. I asked her if I could microchip him now that he was an outside cat. She replied, “No, I don’t want him back if he is ever found.”

"Inappropriate elimination" is defined as lack of consistent use of the litter box, versus "marking" which is associated with a behavioral component where the cat claims property, or challenges others for territory. It can also be a sign of stress, anxiety, or fear.

A behavioral assessment of "marking" should only be done after a medical etiology has been ruled out. A veterinary behaviorist can assist in diagnosing and treating marking, and should always be utilized when treating this problem.

This article was compiled from a lecture by Benjamin L. Hart, DVM, PhD, DACVB, UC Davis. Given at CVC East, Baltimore, MD. 2009, and Hart, Hart and Bain, Canine and Feline Behavior Therapy, 2nd Ed, 2006, Blackwell Press.

It is important for the pet guardian to understand that cats are attracted to previously soiled areas. This is important because cats with their very astute sense of smell use a community waste area. They are attracted to an area that smells as if it contained fecal matter. This scent is undetectable by us. However, just the opposite is true also. If the area you are requesting them to use as a bathroom is too concentrated for their liking they will repel it. Remember the intention is to make the toilet area for your cat attractive to them, although it might not be as attractive to us.

It is very important to clearly distinguish between “inappropriate urination” and “marking.”

Inappropriate urination/defecation is characterized by;

·        Cats posture to urinate. They squat, lower the back end and empty their bladder. The litter box is used sometimes, infrequently, or not at all.

·        Cats will soil areas such as carpet, clothing, planters, or other items on a horizontal surface.

·        Cats with early signs of litter box aversion may straddle the box, shake their paws, or not covering their waste.

·        Often the inappropriate behavior starts as urination but may progress to defecation.

Cats that “mark” are most often characterized by;

·        Standing to place small amounts of urine most often on a vertical surface.

·        They continue to use the litter box to urinate and defecate.

·        The marking is usually done because of some difficult to identify inciting cause. It may be stress of other cats or pets in the house, or an outside cat.

Basic household guidelines are to keep a very clean litter box. It should be checked daily and all waste should be removed. Provide enough litter boxes so that the cats have a choice and do not have to challenge each other for a place.

We as parents make the common mistake of picking a litter that pleases us, based on its ability to clump, or its scent, or even its low price, but there are many, many, options out there. Try an at-home litter and litter box preference test by offering many sizes and shapes of boxes. Try covered, uncovered, tall, shallow, large and small. Also try many types of litter. Try sand, potting soil, clumping, non-clumping, crystals, wheat, pine, paper, etc. Let your pet have a vote and provide them with the options they feel most comfortable with.

Clean the litter boxes daily by scooping or removing the waste. Weekly the boxes should be dumped and the litter changed. The litter boxes should be cleaned with a mild detergent. Avoid all harsh smelling cleaners like ammonia, bleach, pine, or citrus. Cats have very sensitive noses and they will not want to be in a box that is too strong smelling.

If your cat has soiled in the house the area must be cleaned so that no trace of previous soiling can be detected. The product the author recommended is KOE (kennel odor eliminator) available at Amazon. Areas that have been soiled should be cleaned and removed from access. A common trick to keep the cat off of a previously soiled area is to purchase carpet covering and place it upside down. Cats will not try to walk on the plastic and the small plastic tacks that grip the carpet are uncomfortable to step on.

When all else fails try to confine the cat to a small space. The small space acts as a sort of re-training tool. It can re-enforce litter box etiquette and for a cat that has stress as a factor in the aversion the confinement might help ease their worries. A small space might be a large dog crate, a bathroom, or a small private area. Once the cat is using the litter box regularly again you can gradually allow the cat to have access to the rest of the house. Confinement for some cats might actually be stressful, and more stress might compound the aversion. So confinement should only be used as a last resort.

Peeing Outside The Box? The 20 Minute Cure!

If you asked me what problem I hear the most often, AND, which problem is the most gut-wrenching to address I would without hesitation say “cats and inappropriate urination or defecation.”

Not only do I see and hear about this issue frequently (weekly or more often), but I hear clients deep frustrations and exhaustion with it. In many cases clients are coming to me to discuss these problem weeks, months, or even years after it has begun. They have gotten to the point of almost giving up and give me the distinct clear impression that I have “20 minutes and a hundred bucks to fix this problem, or that cat is going outside or away to never never land.”

How is anyone going to fix a long standing problem in 20 minutes? Yep, impossible.

Here’s why. 

Let’s give every pet the benefit of the doubt and ASSUME that their issue started with a medical cause. 

It could have been any of the following:

1.   Infection. Your cat could have had a urinary tract infection. In fact, your cat might still have one. That urinary tract infection (UTI) might have caused the litter box aversion because your cat associated the pain of having to go to the bathroom (urination OR defecation) with the litter box. Say, for instance you are an 8 year old kid. You go down to the dark dismal basement and you step on a snake. It scares you to pieces. Think you are going to be as excited to go back down in that basement in the future? Probably not. Your cat looks at the litter box like you look at that basement. The best way to check for a UTI is with a culture and sensitivity. This is much more sensitive than a small sample of urine being quickly viewed in your veterinarian’s office.
2.  They have difficulty getting into the box because their joints hurt, or they are too weak to pick up their legs to get into the box. So they get close to it and call it ‘good enough.’
3. They were declawed and their paws hurt on the litter that to you feels like sand and to them feels like shards of glass.

Now, let’s give your thorough and complete medical work up the benefit of the doubt and address some of the behavior issues that can lead to aversion issues.

1.  Your litter box is not as clean as your cat wishes it to be. Now I realize that cleaning the litter box is probably not anyone’s favorite task. But if you ask me what kind of bathroom I am comfortable using it will not be a public porto-potty. I like my own pristine clean thoroughly daily deodorized home toilet. My cats get their litter box cleaned (scooped) daily. Weekly I dump, disinfect, clean and rinse thoroughly, and then dry the boxes. New litter is placed in every box weekly. Yes, that’s a lot of litter that I go through.
2.  There are not enough litter boxes in the house. See Rule of thumb for adequate number of litter boxes below.
3. The litter boxes are at the other end of the universe. If your cat never leaves your home than your home is their whole entire universe. If the box is on the other side of the living area then using the box requires a long commute. Nobody likes a long commute to the other side of the universe.
4.  The litter boxes are scaring your cats. For example, say your dog likes to sample from the litter box, and say your cat feels like they are being stalked for treats at the dispensary.
5.  The litter box is the dark dismal black hole and they are reluctant to tempt their own fate.
6.  The litter substrate is not to your cats liking. If it is reasonable to buy “deluxe quilted triple ply toilet paper” then maybe your cat has a preference too.
7.  There is an area of your house that has been soiled and your cat now believes that it is an “approved bathroom spot.”
8.  Your litter box is in an area that your very intelligent, very sensitive, hyper-acute pet thinks is dangerous. I have seen litter boxes placed next to washers and dryers. If you have ever had a washer that was off balance or dried tennis shoes in your dryer your cat might think that there is a caged dangerous beast in there and hence, wisely, avoid the tigers den.

Here’s what we know about cats and their litter box preference:

1. The rule of thumb with respect to adequate number of litter boxes in the house is. Two for the first cat and one additional for each additional cat.
2. If you don’t crawl down to the basement (or three floors away) to use your bathroom then why would your cat?
3. Your cat’s preferable litter is sand. Like play box kids sand. In general they do not prefer the clumping litter. I know we humans love the convenience of clumping but your cat likes to feel soft sand between their toes.
4.  Scented litter. I think that everyone would agree that cats have an incredibly superior sense of smell. How many of us have ever sat in church next to a patron who bathed and didn't dry off in a vat of perfume? So strong that it knocks you over. Think about this the next time you pour the litter in your cat’s box.
5. Dust, cat’s hate dust. Can you imagine digging a hole to mark your spot, covering your business and being enclosed in a box while you do it? That’s a lot of dust. It’s not pleasant and it’s not healthy.
6. Cat’s preference for size of their litter box is a kid’s sized pool. Yep, a 5 foot diameter four inch deep play sand box. How about that in your living room?
7. Cat’s intuition is to always be on guard. They like to be able to see all around them while they take pause of use the bathroom. They feel safer with an exit strategy and a clear escape route. OR, they like a comfortable sized enclosed litter box that they can go into, sniff around, dig for the right spot, and go to the bathroom in peace. (Perhaps the reason so many households have magazine baskets beside the loo?).
8. Try to provide a litter box that meets the specific needs of your cat. And remember that every cat is different.  Older cats have a difficult time climbing into a box. They might put their head in the box but the rest of them sticks out the front so you see urine and feces just outside the opening of the litter box. Try the shallowest sided box you can. Did you know there are even boxes that have removable sides so the cat thinks they are in the box but without the front side they don’t have to climb over anything.
9. Try different sized boxes. Try ones without lids, without flaps, etc. Put lots of different options out for your cat and see which one they prefer.
10. Try a different location. Maybe the box is by a power outlet? An electric piece of equipment? Or in a high traffic area? Are there other family members around that might stress your cat about using the litter box?
11.  Try a different type of litter (we can it substrate). Like sand, like non-clumping, or even potting soil. If your pet selects a different substrate you might be able to very gradually (emphasis on gradual) transition them over to a litter that you prefer.
12. Think about how you would feel if you were in your cat’s paws? How would you feel about the whole litter box experience? Then try to adjust for their preference and not ours.
13.  NEVER, EVER, EVER reprimand a cat. Never! Not in the box, not around the box, not because or about the box. Your cat is trying to tell you something. They never do anything out of spite, maybe fear, but never some human derived manipulative emotion. Your cat is a brilliant magnificent animal. I repeat this motto frequently…

“If your cat had opposable thumbs they would write on the walls “HELP!,” but because they do not they have no other way of telling you that there is a problem short of their litter box.”

Please do not ignore your cat, please don’t get angry at them. 

Please try to be patient, and please afford me more than 20 minutes to help you both.

Part Two on litter box 911 comes tomorrow.

If you have any questions about anything in this article, or any other kitty litter pointers to add please tell me. I can be reached @pawbly, or you can ask me a direct question at Pawbly.com

Thanks for reading!

Cat Basics 101. AKA: Play Time Wren Style

Wren playing with me.
She never bites but she tells me that she loves to play by grabbing my hand and holding it.
She also loves to give lots of kisses!

It takes a modicum of courage to admit to favoring cats over dogs. I have stated so much in past blog posts, (but I am certainly very careful to not wear it on my lab coat while in appointments with clients, perhaps I am not courageous at all?, especially when my dog patients outnumber my cat patients by about 6 to 1).

I have clients secretly admit to me often that "they never really thought that they liked a cat until they got one." I know their subtle, soft, acknowledgement is only done to me and only because we are already behind closed doors. It is also usually admitted by one spouse about the other when they are not present. Why is it so embarrassing to like cats? Why does society regard them as so substandard to the canine? Truly I don't understand, and obviously I don't agree.

I admit (freely and publicly now) that I like cats better than dogs, (but please don't tell my dogs).

Here's why; because they are a smart, adaptable, cunning, skilled, independent, survivors. I admire these qualities in any creature. I especially like cats because you earn their affection. You can't buy it, demand it, negotiate it, or coerce it. A cat will only love you if you are kind, patient, gentle, and consistent about all of them.

Wren and Oriole. The very best buddies.

OK, here I go treading into hot water. My husband (who is both 1. not a cat person before meeting me, and 2. never had a cat before meeting me), thought that he too preferred dogs over cats, (full disclosure he likely does still like the dogs better than the cats), lacks patience and consistency with our cats. He thinks that wrestling, chasing, and holding them with restraint until they succumb and accept is all perfectly appropriate cat training. He has yet to comprehend the subtle differences between "dog" and "cat" training.

My point of this blog is to offer my advice for having cats that are just as interactive and compatible as dogs, although the methods to 'training' them are very different.

Magpie, in the middle of her TP play party. 

Here's how and why;

We teach a dog obedience for their safety and for our assigned purpose for them. Whether that be a guard dog, companion dog, assistance dog, guide dog, house dog, or buddy. A cat intuitively has learned all of the survival and house breaking skills without much, if any, effort on our parts. What cats and dogs both learn differently from us is to trust. A dog will learn to obey you with both positive and negative reinforcement. A cat, well, you have to be gentle all the time every time. They have to want to do anything and everything you ask of them. Forcing them to stay on your lap, or any other silly trick a dog will do for a reward is futile.

Alright, I do have one small exception to this. A cat that is not used to you, or used to affection, needs to learn that trusting someone is OK. This is trusting someone when they have never had anyone, OR, if the someone they had was abusive to them. We have a husband and wife client at the clinic who adopted a somewhat feral cat from us about 4 years ago. She was handle-able, but fearful. She would cower as you approached her, but never run, and when you picked her up she would hunker down as if hoping to become invisible because she was scared. Once you held her for a little while she surrendered and would even emit the tiniest beginnings of a purr. I knew that they would provide her a safe place to learn that people can be nice and trusted. The problem was that they are so gentle and kind that they think she is too afraid to be picked up so they never force her, and hence she is just as, (likely more so) afraid than ever.

At our house I have trained the dogs to understand that they must always submit to the cats. I do this because the cats will likely always stand their ground if they feel threatened and the dogs can inflict more harm. A cat will only fight if it feels threatened. They (in almost all cases) will avoid conflict at all costs. They will usually not defend turf, food, or possessions. A dog will do so with teeth and intent to harm. So at every interaction the dogs stop, sit, and wait for the cats to decide what they want to do. On the stairs the dogs sit and wait, at a doorway, if they are eating and a cat approaches they have to stop eating and wait. The cats also have a place that is just theirs. They have their own room that is baby gated off so that only they can fit in. If they ever want to get some dog-free time they have their room. Their cat food and litter boxes are in there too. No dogs allowed in the cat space. Having a safe, quiet, and secluded place just for themselves has kept everyone stress free, and the cat food available for the cats.

Wren getting ready to "ATTACK!"

The cats are with us almost as much as the dogs are. At any given moment there is a dog, or two, and a cat, or three, with us. We go on walks together every one all together and no man gets left behind. The cats are as well trained as the dogs are. We keep the dogs and cats with us. They are all only allowed outside under supervision and they all come when called. For those of you that don't live far out in the country there are leashes and harnesses available for cats, so that you to can take them for a walk, just like your dog.

Exercise and mental stimuli are incredibly important in keeping your pets happy and healthy. Going for walks, setting up window seats with views of the outdoors (better yet of birds at bird feeders), or using toys can keep your cats minds active and from destroying or damaging your home or furniture.

One secret to cat training: is to acknowledge the cats at every single interaction. Every morning I say "hello" to them, I spend time with each of them, and I never walk by them without a pat, a snuggle, and a kind word. The hope is that they will always feel safe and welcomed and trust me.

Here is a summary for Basic Cat Care 101;

• Always be kind to them. Never Ever Scold. This only teaches them to be afraid of you. They will never understand reprimand, fear, or anger.
• Keep food and water available at all times. Clean bowls and dishes everyday. Use stainless steel or ceramic, no plastic.
• Here's the rule for litter boxes. Two litter boxes for the first cat, and then one additional per cat.
• Good veterinary care is paramount. Yearly examinations, fecal checks, and if advised blood and urine to monitor for diseases.
• Toys. Cats love toys. the furry ones, the catnip ones, balls, etc. A pile of toys is a source of play, exercise, and allows them to display their natural hunt and catch instincts.
• Keep litter boxes clean and try to avoid perfumed dusty litter. (Cats like dirt, so the closer your litter is to dirt the more they will want to use it).
• Cats are curious critters. Offer boxes to play in, walls or cat trees to climb, or anything they can hide, sleep, or play in. No string, ribbon, or elastic bands please..can cause obstructions if swallowed.
• Cats love to nap. An assortment of beds, some high, some low, some big, some small, some they can get into, etc. will keep them rested and healthy.
• Check eyes, ears, mouth, teeth, nails, and coat daily. Any questions ask your vet. Many older cats have nails that grow into their feet because they don't shed them normally. Dental disease. Almost all cats over 6 have dental disease. Routine cleanings are one of the best ways to maintain whole body health.
• Microchips. A cat without a microchip is at the mercy of the world. If your cat ever gets lost (a house fire, a robber breaks into your house, etc)  that microchip is the best chance they have of finding you again   
• I love fountains. I use a ceramic water fountain. It is especially helpful with older cats to encourage water intake. Many older cats have kidney impairment and diuresis of the kidneys helps them last longer.
• A happy, healthy cat is a good weight (free feeding of dry food is problematic for some indoor cats), has a beautiful coat (the best way is lots and lots of petting, brushing and a clean parasite free environment), and is not afraid and interacts with family and others.
• A cat that cries, tears apart furniture, doesn't use the litter box, or acts irrationally needs help and/or a medical intervention. Your pet will always tell you that they need something you just need to be listening. They never do anything for spite, anger, or revenge.

Every time you see your pet acknowledge them. Say "hello" tell them "how much you love them" and give affection freely, openly, and incessantly.



Isn't that what we all want?

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