How To Trim Nails

I see a lot of clients who come in for nail assistance. 

They all walk in the door saying the same thing. "Can you trim Max's nails?"

The answer is always "Yes."

And in many cases the conversation stops there. But it shouldn't.

We should ALL always ask, "What's your concern about you doing them?"

But I think the reason that we don't ask more often is that we know in most cases what the response is going to be.

Here is the most common answer that we get. "Max doesn't like his nails trimmed and I am afraid to cut them too close."  (I should put the clause in here, "if I had a nickel for every time I heard this.")

My response ALWAYS wants to be; "I am sure that Max doesn't like his nails being cut, and we all worry about cutting the nail too short because this certainly does happen no matter how experienced the trimmer is, or how careful we are, but Max shouldn't be the one who gets to decide what does and doesn't get done to him when we are talking about his health. Max needs his nails trimmed so that they don't get caught on things and then tear out from the nail, or scratch you."

I find it silly how many people will come rushing into the clinic for an emergency broken nail petrified that their pet is "bleeding out!" and pay for the emergency fee, sedation, bandaging, lidocaine, and know that the nail broke because it was so treacherously long, curled, or sharp that it literally ripped out of the nail bed. But don't want to try to avoid this from ever happening again by learning to over come their fear of trimming nails.

I know that most, (OK, ALL) pet's do not like to have their nails trimmed. And I also know that ALMOST all of you are afraid to cut the nail to short, (we call it "quick the nail"). When you cut the nail too short it's just like cutting your own nail too short, you bleed. Any your pet will jump and yelp, and then you will feel so bad that you will abandon the thought of ever attempting to cut the nails "ever again!" So you will tell yourself that you "can't hold your pet," and "you can't see where to cut," and you are "terrified of hurting them," so you in very short order give up and decide to leave it to the pros, us.

And because you come to the Vet's office so rarely the nails will get put on the back burner to all of the other important stuff in your life and the nails will grow, and grow, and grow. The longer your pet goes between nail trims the longer the quick grows out, and therefore, the harder it is to keep them trimmed.

In an effort to make nail trimming easier for all of you, I want to go over what I think about when I approach nail trimming.

First some dogs never need their nails trimmed. Some dogs wear them down by running on hard surfaces or living on hard surfaces so the nails get filed by themselves. BUT, remember some dogs and cats (especially the polydactyl cats) have nails in places that don't touch the ground, like the dewclaws, or the "extra" cat toes, so these need to be kept trimmed.

Second, we all quick a nail. It happens no matter how experienced you are, and how hard you try to avoid it. So my advice is to just be prepared for it, and address it if it happens, and then jump back in the saddle and keep going. Please don't give up after the first time you quick the nail and it bleeds. You can call me and I will confess to you that it happens to me, and yes, I feel bad, but you can pick up those nail trimmers and push on. You are not a bad person, your pet will not be traumatized for the rest of their lives, and they won't bleed to death from a nail trim.

Third, the right tools are a must! You can't do a good job without the right tools.

Cat trimmers with white handles on the left, Quik-stop in the bottle, and large dog nail trimmers with the orange handles.

Fourth, (and most importantly): If you can't hold your pet safely, (this is called proper pet restraint) then you can't safely cut their nails. I would say that 95% of the time the owners who come in asking for help with trimming the nails don't really have a problem with nail trimming they have a problem with pet restraint. Their problem has everything to do with the fact that they simply can't hold their pet safely or securely, and it has nothing to do with their ability or inability to cut the nails.

I have one very good client who brings his dog in every 6 months for sedation just so we can trim his nails.

I have another client who came in monthly for 6 months just so we could train them how to hold their dog. We didn't even touch the feet until the 5th practice session.

I have also had many clients who come in for lessons on how to trim nails and when I see how helpless they are to restrain their pet we all give up. (I should never admit to this. I should take my own advice and say to all, "we never let the pet win, we work through it, and we persevere with unfailing conviction," but that would be a lie).

OK, first thing first: learn how to properly restrain your dog, (or cat, or pet). If you are not sure, or are uncomfortable with this, call your vet and ask them to give you a "How-To" session on proper pet restraint. In almost all cases the Vet Techs can help you with this lesson, they are the masters at holding. This is a 2 person job. So convince (or bribe) your spouse to come with you. One person is the "determined, brave, strong, and don't give up easily," holder and the other is the "nail trimmer."

This is how nail trimming goes at my house; I have my dogs sit, then lay down, and then roll over. They then have to let me have their feet and not move while I trim them all. Savannah, and Jekyll are terrible with this. They still to this day, hate it, but they do it because they know I won't let them go until we are done. I don't yell, or fight, or be mean, I am just determined and stubborn. (Anyone who knows me will say I am like this regardless of the task. That's a compliment, right? Please say yes?) I have trained them to tolerate this without making it a stressful arduous task. It is always done patiently and purposefully. I give lots of praise and reassurance as they try to convince me to let them go. I will stop the trimming and just hold the foot if they start to struggle too much. I want them to understand that this is not a scary terrible punishment. I take my time, I remain calm and in control and it is over quickly and with minimal stress. It takes practice, patience, determination and love.

VERY IMPORTANT! Don't force, yell, scream, fight, or make this a difficult process. Because if it is neither one of you will ever willingly do it over again. The first objective is to be able to trim the nails easily and safely. If your dog, cat, pet, is fighting you get help with proper restraint and deal with the trust issues your pet is telling you that they have. And leave the nails to the pros until the restraint issue is resolved. Often the fighting to be restrained is the bigger issue, not the nails.

CATS:

For cats I recommend that you get the cat on your lap, get them very clam and start holding the foot gently. Many Cats will initially resist their feet being touched but if you can keep your cat calm this can be a quick and easy procedure. If your cat starts to struggle or get aggressive stop and let them go. The cat approach is different than the dog approach, A dog should never be allowed to win and a cat will never be convinced to give up without you bleeding significantly. If you really have a tough cat, then try to wrap them in a towel so their face is hidden and do one foot at a time. Your Vet or their staff can also show you how to properly scruff and hold. This tends to induce more fear than I think is necessary so I usually avoid recommending scruffing.

To expose a cat's nails just press the toe between your fingers.
The nail will be forced put of its sheath and it is usually very easy to identify the quick in cats.
Some older cats have very thick nails so a few trims are needed to find the quick.

Trimmed nails. Midnight is modeling.

By pressing on the underside of the foot, or each individual toe you can expose the nail.

DOGS:

On the topic of nails. I often recommend that the pups with the "dangling dewclaws" (you know those funny insignificant toes that dangle in the breeze and look as if they were last minute additions) be surgically removed at spay/neuter time. These nails often get caught on clothing and bedding and need to be trimmed more often.

Here are my suggestions for trimming dogs nails.

I recommend that one person be the designated holder and the other the trimmer. IMPORTANT note; once the holder takes hold they DO NOT LET GO! This is a training lesson. Training you to be calm, patient, gentle, and effective as a care-giver. For your dog it is training lesson that they are safe, and that occasionally things they do not like still need to be done. The more times you fail at this, whether it be by yelling, screaming, being forceful, intimidating, or giving up, the harder you are going to have to try the next time. There is always a next time. You are also telling your dog that they are in charge and they will continue to challenge you every time they are being asked to do something they do not want to do. You are the parent, act like a good one.

The trimmer will hold the foot firmly and look at the nail from the side. Hold the foot with the toe pointing directly to the left or right. Use your dominant hand to hold the trimmers. Use only good quality spring loaded sharp nail cutters. I have included a picture of the trimmers I use for dogs and cats. DO not use the guillotine trimmers, and do not use dirty or rusty or hard to use trimmers. Always have Quik-stop out and ready to use. (See picture).

Savannah's nail. I view the nail from the side so I can identify where to cut.

Properly trimmed nails. And no blood!

Jekyll's nails. His are easier because they are white and we can see the quick (pink) clearly.

Avoid the pink area of the nails, aka "the quick." This is what bleeds if you cut to close. For those pets with black or dark nails if you look at the nail from below, the fat, bulbous part of the nail is the area where the quick is, so avoid cutting there.

For dark nails sometimes it helps to look at the nail from below to see where the quick ends.

As a general rule we start clipping conservatively and will often make a few cuts working up the nail towards the toe. Don't start high, start low on the nail. Your pet will thank-you for being gentle.

Here is a good You Tube video, with tips and pointers.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icNKAEvasn0

Emergency Kit. The Veterinarians At Home Kit.

I was asked by a follower on Twitter for "my best pet advice," so I had to think about this open ended question for a moment and decided that one of my best pieces of advice was that every pet owner should have an at home emergency kit.

Here is what I think it should have in it;

1. A list of emergency phone numbers. 

I give out business cards so that my clients have one for their regular vet and also a card for our emergency clinic. (It has their number in very big NUMBERS so even in the emergency you see it). I also want the directions to be on the card. When you get stressed you forget to listen or pay attention to anything.

Pet Poison Hotline. Their number is 1-800-213-6680, a fee applies for their services.

2. A big blanket. 

It can act as a straitjacket, a warming blanket, and absorb fluids if needed.

3. Thick absorbent bandages and Tape. 

Some people actually use women's maxi pads. They are cheap, and highly absorbent, and pre-packaged. Vets love Vetwrap. You can find it pet supply stores, or stores that sell horse products. It sticks to itself but not your pet, or their fur.

4. 3% Hydrogen Peroxide. 

If you are concerned that your pet ingested something toxic or dangerous you need to have this on hand. Call your vet or the Pet Poison Helpline BEFORE inducing vomiting. Their number is 1-800-213-6680, OR call your vet, OR local pet emergency clinic. DO NOT WAIT. Seconds count, and hours can kill. (For more information on when to use this please see my blog, To Puke Or Not To Puke, That Is The Question..)

5. Benadryl (generic is called diphenhydramine). 

You need this anti-histamine for bug bites, (or if you are my dog Charlie, eating frogs) or any other allergic reaction. If your pet gets red skin, or hives, or is even having a worse allergic reaction it is your go to drug to try to slow or stop the progression of the reaction. If your pet is having trouble breathing, get in the car and go immediately to the closest ER.

6. Eye wash. 

Over the counter generic eye wash, sterile saline, is fine. Cheap stuff. Use it to flood the eye if the eye looks inflamed, has any abnormal discharge, or is being held shut (squinting). If the eye doesn't appear to be improving after an hour, or if it is painful, or you see yellow or thick discharge you need to go to the vet ASAP.

7. Thermometer and Lube. 

Please use a digital thermometer. The old mercury ones are too dangerous and fragile. What would happen if your pet sat down while you are trying to take their temperature? The normal temperature of a dog or cat is about 100.5  to 102.5 degrees F, or 38.5 to 39.2 degrees Celsius. If your pet is below 98 or above 104 degrees F go to the vet immediately. DO NOT WAIT! It is very likely the temperature is on its way to worsening, and seconds count!

8. Nail trimmers and Quik-Stop.

It is important to have the right trimmers for your pet. Ask your vet to show you what they use, and how to use them. Kwik-Stop is the product we use to stop the bleeding if we accidentally cut the nail too short. Here is my primer on How To Trim Nails.
I swear I have had this same bottle since 1995. It is still full, it takes forever to go through a bottle, and you get better at trimming nails with practice.

I also have very definite opinions on nail trimmers. Don't buy the cheap guillotine kind. Buy spring loaded heavy duty nail trimmers if your dog is over 30 pounds. ALWAYS have quik-stop standing by JIC.

9. If your pet has any medical issues you may need other drugs in this kit. 

I keep an NSAID, (old dog pains), and ear wash for floppy eared Beagle-pup. Along with previously prescribed drugs, ointments, etc. Always ask your vet before using old medications. many expire, and often clients inadvertently use the wrong drug on the wrong species or at the incorrect dose. I also keep heartworm, flea and tick preventatives close by in a locked container.

Please remember to not use prescription medications, (or ANY medications) without your Veterinarian's "OK" first. Many clients over use and abuse the prescription ear medications and over time make the ears much harder to treat.

Always use the medications given to you completely and exactly as directed on the label. I also have unfortunately seen many owners give their pets "human drugs" that are toxic to pets. I have actually lost pets due to owners giving medications that are toxic, and/or giving doses of drugs that are way over what a pet can tolerate. If you are in doubt, "Don't give it!"

10. I also keep my pets medical records with the medical kit. 

So if you need to run to the emergency Vet you have your pets records.

11. A Leash, Harness, Collar, and/or Pet Carrier.

If you need to get your pet somewhere fast it really helps to have these things at your finger tips.

12. Something to use as a Muzzle.

Also, some dogs do not do well with shock collars, or invisible fences. Please seek advice before purchasing products that might be potentially harmful and/or not work for your pet.

In the event your pet is hurt, or scared be prepared with a soft cloth muzzle. You can make one yourself with a long scarf, leash, a necktie, or pantyhose (if you use this don't pull it too tight this stuff is hard to get off and can act like a tourniquet) or length of gauze. I promise you your pet will bite if they are in pain and you are trying to do anything to them. When you are in pain you are not the same individual. Ask any woman who delivered a baby what came out of their mouth in the delivery room. A dog, or cat, or anything reacts without thinking if you touch them, and they are in pain. So just put one on and then don't get upset if they resent the muzzle. Improvise your own muzzle by making a noose by tying a loose knot in the middle of the length of the strip, leaving a large loop. Approach the dog quietly from behind and slip the noose over their nose. Do not block the nose, they need to breathe through this. If your dog is really struggling to breathe then do not tie the noose so tight. It should only be tight enough to not allow their mouth to bite you. Put the noose about mid-way on their muzzle/nose. Pull the know tight with the know on the chin, then pull the ends behind the ears and fasten a bow.

 The following picture is from "The Dog Lover's Companion," Fog City Press, a great resource for all dog owners.

Here is a picture of Savannah, my dog, modeling, (unhappily) an improvised muzzle.

And here is Joe, my husband, being a goof, because I asked him to show me how put it on ( a little quiz to see if he was paying attention), after I had put it on Savannah.

Here are some of my pets. I promise you that I have used my emergency kit on every one of them. (Did I ever tell you about the time my whole staff came over to our house to go fishing and my dog Charlie bit into the 3 pronged barbed fishing hook? That was emergency sedation, first-aid, and surgery. I'll tell you that story later.)


Ms. Pig just saying "hello"

Miss Pig, Ambrose, and Savannah on a perfect summer day. That's Ms. Pigs house. It is insulated and cozy year around.

Here is Squeak Box, DC, and Donner. We only go out on supervised outings. They are indoor kitties. But they love to go for walks with us and think of themselves as vicious predatory jungle lions.

Ambrose looking for attention.

Lilly, my moms dog. She's another story. In this photo she has Cushings disease. It was not treated at this point. Now she's an Addisonian. I'll explain her saga someday.